Monday, December 29, 2008
hue part 3
last night we had dinner in an ancient house, hosted by a grandson of one of the senior advisors to the last emperor. he gave us a bit of a tour- think intricate woodwork stained black, and ornate carvings everywhere, even in the ceiling beams! he demonstrated the ceremonial weapons (huge halberds and my favorite, a spear with a carving of a fist on the end), and showed us how his grandfather smoked opium. (hint: with his head on the lap of his most beautiful concubine, puffing from a beautiful hand-carved elephant tusk.)
we're taking advantage of the extra time and leaving in a few minutes to go check out a tomb.
no more diaper pants, hanoi will be our last city and totally cycling-free. i'm fine with that. it's been great, but my butt is sore and i'm really sick of being soggy! i don't know if i'll ever get the mildew smell out of my suitcase.
it's really been fantastic so far. this country is filled with warm, gracious, sensitive, subtle people.
hue part 2
we rode along six-foot wide roads through paddies, jungles, and towns today. on this road, the villages feel like wild west towns- all the buildings alongside each other facing 'main street,' and instead of horses, ... hondas. the motorbike is definitely the pack mule here, and the flip flop is the cowboy boot.
i cut my ride a few kilometers early when my pal tony (he's a music lawyer) capsized in a fairly large pool of mud and sliced his hands open on the gravel. we've actually had quite a few spills on this trip- biking is a dangerous business!
lunch today was on a riverboat which was pretty fun- it was bright red with giant dragons adorning the front. as i dipped my shrimp rolls in the dish of fish sauce on the white tablecloth and surveyed the jungly riverbanks, i realized i was puttering down the river under wildly different circumstances than my countrymen who visited here all those 30 or 40 years ago.
the vietnamese, for their part, have no problem discussing that ancient history, but it's certainly not their first association when they see americans. they've had more wars in the past hundred years than i can count, and our conflict here is just one chapter.
time to head out into the rain again for more cocktails and food.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Hue
Saturday, December 27, 2008
how white is your rice (hoi an)
yesterday was long long long, between the boat, the van, the plane, and 30 km of cycling in the rain. that was all before lunch! i also wandered the neverending market, toured a chinese temple to the water goddess, visited a house that has been in the same family for EIGHT generations, and got measured and picked out fabric for my new three piece suit.
last night we ate at mango mango, a popular restaurant on the river, with overly-flavorful food and overly-strong drinks.
this morning we had an incredible vietnamese cooking class. we made (and ate) incredible summer rolls, winter rolls, scallion pancakes, jicama-banana leaf salad, and the most delectable spiced chicken i've had in a very long time. we learned that bean sprouts are good for virility, and that, even though the vietnamese have come to admit brown rice is better for you, they still judge a meal's value by how white the rice is.
afterwards i stopped in a barbershop and had the most comprehensive face and head shave ever. he even shaved and cleaned my ears!
most of the group is out riding for the afternoon- i'm taking it off, to do more shopping, have a fitting for my suit, pick up laundry, and generally take a breather.
as much fun as i'm having, i'm definitely homesick!
Thursday, December 25, 2008
pitch black morning
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
christmas day on ninh van bay
i'm sitting in the 'library' at the six senses hideaway on the coast. the library is a deck made of weathered wood, with a high thatched roof, and the no walls. i'm looking out on the bay, surf is crashing in and there are several vietnamese fishing boats crawling in the water.
six senses is on a small island- we arrived by boat. there is a short beach (in front of every cabana, just beyond the personal plunge pool) and the island quickly inclines in a glorious cluster of trees and rocks. to make the view even better, this portion of the beach (the kilometer or so that the resort covers) is concave, so to both sides you can see the cliffs and trees rising up and reaching out over the water.
it's rained just about non-stop since we arrived yesterday afternoon, which i beautiful in its own right, but we are definitely mourning for the beauty we know we'd experience in this green place if the sun were out. the puddly gravel walkways and wooden deck pathways are littered with large snails and slugs. the high winds rattle the wood and canvas of our cabana, make the thick nautical rope whine pleasantly, and render our rain ponchos ineffective!
last night we had dinner in the restaurant, at one long table. the room is a much larger version of this library, with a tremendously high thatched roof, and wet, powerful wind threatened our napkins and gave the whole affair sort of an urgent feel. as we dined on course after course, troupes of young, heavily made-up and thoroughly sequinned vietnamese girls performed a series of dances in unison, divided in the middle by a 'fashion show.'
yesterday's ride was incredible. another rainy day, i abandoned my rain coat early (it was very hot) and succumbed to the wet. when it wasn't raining, our bikes still plowed through mist and steam and ground-level clouds, and ripped up puddles of thick mud. i had a solid racing stripe of brown dirt when i was done, from the back of my head to my bum, thanks to the kickback of my rear tire.
here was the vietnam that i had imagined. we perimetered miles of rice paddies, in various states of harvest. during the first part of the ride, the shoots were so green they were fluorescent. just like the pictures, workers in conical hats patiently picked their way through the ten-inch water. other paddies were muddy and devastated, post-harvest, and workers slogged around with hoes, churning the mud.
we cut through lots of villages, where we were often received with giggly 'hello!'s, mostly from kids. i'd always return the hello full-voiced and with a big sloppy grin, and kids and adults alike would descend into peals of laughter. we're a heck of a parade, with our neon clothes and big fancy bikes and western faces.
the houses in these villages vary greatly in style and value. many are narrow concrete construction with colorful fronts and bare gray sides, as if they were supposed to be nestled in a crowded city block- but they stand alone in a field! many houses are combination residence/ convenience store, and all seem to have a front room with no front wall. most have large outdoor living areas, cantinas of a sort, with simple sheet metal roofs to keep the rain off. the small, brightly-colored plastic kiddy chairs (such as mom and i have purchased from the grocery store for my niece anahita) are ubiquitous- they are EVERYWHERE. almost as common as motorbikes! in fact, the preferred sitting and hanging out apparatus around here seems to be kiddy chairs and motorbikes- only beat out by the tireless squatting on the haunches that the vietnamese do so well. the floor is never too far away, and even the elderly pop up and down with alacrity.
as we turned one corner, an open-front house was blasting "feliz navidad.' it was still ringing in my ears as we broke from the jungle and penetrated yet another rice paddy, this one ringed with a low green mountain swathed in impossibly-low-hanging clouds.
it's christmas and i am on an island, off the coast of vietnam. it's achingly beautiful, and wonderful to be with my sweetheart, but, as the surf crashes and the rain pours down around me, it's also throbbingly far from family and home.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
da lat pt. 3
Monday, December 22, 2008
da lat pt. 2
da lat
Sunday, December 21, 2008
ho chi minh city
Saturday, December 20, 2008
hong kong
lounge
Friday, December 19, 2008
it's starting...
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Putin to be the new Apatow
Posted: Mon., Dec. 15, 2008, 9:53am PT
Putin takes charge of local film industry
Politician to chair Russian cinema council
Russian Prime Minister Vladimir Putin is taking personal charge of progress in the development of the country's film industry as chairman of the government council on the progress of domestic cinematography, unveiled Monday.
Putin will "personally supervise" government initiatives to support the film industry, according to the Russian federal press service.
The new body -- which emerged following a meeting of film industry chiefs chaired by Putin at St. Petersburg's Russian World Studios in early October -- will coordinate the work of government bodies, film industry professionals and companies.
The council will not allocate funding but will look at ways to improve efficiency of state support for production, distribution and promotion of Russian films domestically and internationally.
Supporting the introduction of "innovative cinema technologies" and measures to maintain a market share for Russian films on domestic release will also be part of the brief, the government press service said.
At October's meeting of cinema chiefs in St. Petersburg -- held to commemorate 100 years of Russian film -- Putin noted the "potential of cinema to be a major educational tool and valuable point of reference for society."
He said including the development of the domestic film industry in a long-term government plan of social and economic development was essential.
Russian reaction to the new council was muted.
One experienced Russian film industryite told Daily Variety, "As usual, nothing good will come of it."
Sunday, December 14, 2008
downs and ups
is there anything so selfish as feeling depressed?
it's pretty fantastic timing that i leave on friday for a ten-day bike tour of vietnam. if i can't get my head on right and stop feeling sorry for myself during an opportunity like that, i'm a lost cause!
talking with my old friend johnnie newman about feeling down, and feeling un-creative recently, he hit me with the response below. i wanted to share it, because he's always been one to put things as he sees them, without regard for it being pretty or pleasing. his poetry is that he actually means the strange things he says. and it really did make me feel a lot better.
"I know what you mean, bigneil -- and what hits me right now as I write this is that I think it's good to be down sometimes and creatively dead. the fires can't be raging always. those moments where you feel you've got nothing to do or say, no forums to immediately express yourself in, no juice left, no mojo, no electricity.... those are the times where you are receiving MOST of the things you'll be expressing later. especially an artist as sensitive and insightful as you. so just ride this out. don't force anything. write a great character for yourself to play. or don't. come out here and we'll improv. you're going to be fine. you're storing experience right now. get hurt. feel uninspired. worry a little. it's okay. just don't have a heart attack. and when you audition for things or go on interviews just be yourself, let the joy and sorrow shine in you, let it all hum together in a calm display of raw humanity. we're all a bit fu@!ed right now. it's great. the world needs story tellers more than ever. show everyone what it means to be a man. you don't even have to try."
Monday, December 08, 2008
promo for monica's show!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmO3b-kpSf4&feature=channel
Thursday, December 04, 2008
tradizzle video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOixGILVBuw